Istanbul Travel Guide for First-Time Visitors

Understand the geography first

Istanbul spans two continents, split by the Bosphorus strait. The European side holds the historic core and most hotels; the Asian side is where more residents live and where you go for markets, music and a calmer evening.

On the European side, the Golden Horn splits the city again. South of it is the old city — Sultanahmet, the bazaars, the imperial mosques. North of it are Galata, Karaköy, Beyoğlu and Taksim, which is where the restaurants and nightlife concentrate.

• Old city: monuments, museums, early nights.
• Beyoğlu and Galata: food, bars, walkable hills.
• Asian side: markets, local life, best ferry rides.

When to go

April to early June and mid-September to November are the most comfortable months, with mild days and manageable crowds. July and August are hot and humid, and the tourist sites are at their fullest.

Winter is cold, grey and occasionally snowy — but it is also the cheapest season and the mosques and museums feel very different when they are almost empty.

Getting around

Buy an Istanbulkart at any airport or metro station and load it with credit. One card can be shared between travellers and works on the metro, tram, funicular, bus, Marmaray and public ferries.

The T1 tram links most of the sights in the old city, the M2 metro runs up the modern spine, and the ferries are both transport and sightseeing. Taxis are cheap by European standards but slow in traffic; apps make them less stressful.

What to see on your first days

Give the old city one full day: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern sit within a few minutes of each other, with Topkapi Palace next door if you still have energy.

Spend the second day on the water and in Beyoğlu — a Bosphorus cruise in the morning, then Galata and Karaköy on foot in the afternoon. Save the Asian side for day three.

Etiquette that makes life easier

Cover shoulders and knees in mosques; women should also cover their hair, and scarves are usually available at the entrance. Shoes come off before you step onto the carpet.

Tea is offered constantly and refusing is fine. Bargaining is expected in the bazaars, not in shops with printed price tags.